The Bewitchin' Itchen and Some Downs of Renown
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From the exhilarating expanses of the escarpment of the South Downs to the serene seclusion of the shady sides of the River Itchen. From downland droveways bordered by pastures and wheat fields to sparkling streams fringed with rushes and willows. From tiny timber-framed cottages set in intricate, informal gardens to a magnificent mansion set amid sweeping sward. From diverse small churches (one a perfectly preserved mid-Georgian affair, another a mid-Victorian take on the Sainte-Chapelle in Paris) to a mighty cathedral, Europe's longest. You couldn't wish for a more delightful and diverse day walk, but perhaps for one a bit shorter!
Things to look out for on the walk, in order:
Chilcomb: Exposed but charming flint village. Tiny Saxon church of St Andrew.
Cheesefoot Head: Famous panoramic viewpoint on the South Downs Way, 167m up. Views to Southampton and the Isle of Wight to the south and the Hampshire Downs to the north.
River Itchen: A chalk stream 28 miles (45 km) long, noted for fly fishing. Chalk aquifer provides excellent storage and filtration for the public water supply. Site of Special Scientific Interest, supporting protected species including water crowfoot, brown trout, water vole and brook lamphrey.
Ovington: Pleasant houses and church, St Andrew, 1866. 17th century Bush Inn by the river, the prettiness of which I cannot overemphasise!
Itchen Stoke: Church of St Mary, 1866. Lofty and narrow with high lancet windows, columns of red marble and grey granite, polygonal apse with 'maze' pattern like in Chartres Cathedral; all inspired by the Sainte-Chapelle in Paris. Opposite, two cottages built with huge flints.
Avington: Church of St Mary, 1768-71. Brick, with battlemented square tower. Extremely well-preserved Georgian furnishings. Marble font, brass chandeliers, beautiful boxwood family pews (tiered according to social status). One of 'England's Thousand Best Churches' (three stars out of five), Simon Jenkins writes: 'the purest early eighteenth century church in the county...lent a boudoir raffishness by the colouring of the walls and the ceiling, the former white, the latter a vivid power blue'. Avington Park is Grade I listed late 16th century, given a classical portico by George Brydges, courtier to Charles II in 1670. In 1751, his son passed it to his cousin James Brydges, 3rd Duke of Chandos who built the church.
Martyr Worthy: Church of St Swithun has Norman nave with zigzag patterns around doors and tower of 1871.
Easton: Church of St Mary, 1200s, but made more Norman-looking in the 1860s.
Winchester: Ancient Roman town, Saxon capital of England and county town of Hampshire, lying in a hollow beside the River Itchen. The Great Hall is 14th century, the remains of Winchester Castle, and home to the 'Round Table' (a likely Tudor piece). Wolvesey Castle was the scene of the marriage of Queen Mary and Philip of Spain in 1554, then ruined by the Roundheads 100 years later. Elite Winchester College is 600 years old. Winchester Cathedral, with the longest medieval nave in the world, is Saxon, Norman, and then the nave is perpendicular gothic. The extensive cathedral precincts are very fine.
What to bring
For your comfort and safety please be prepared for the anticipated weather and the terrain of the walk - keep in mind the following:
Boots: Hiking boots that are both waterproof and breathable, and provide good ankle support, are important as soon as you encounter any mud. Cross trainers may suffice in good weather and flat routes.
Socks: Proper walking socks keep your feet dry, and help prevent blisters.
Walking Trousers: (ideally water resistant) will be more comfortable than Jeans which are heavy and cold when wet. From April to October shorts are usually a better bet.
Waterproof Over-Trousers: essential in any significant rainfall. Breathable ones are best.
Layered clothing: allows you to quickly adapt to changes in the weather as well as body temperature. E.g. a base layer or a cotton T-Shirt; a mid layer like a micro fleece, or a rugby type thick shirt, and in cooler weather an outer layer consisting of a windproof jacket or a thick fleece.
Waterproof Jacket: essential when hiking in all but the calmest of weather. You get what you pay for with these. Breathable fabrics are advisable.
Hat: essential both in mid winter to preserve heat and in summer to prevent sunburn and heatstroke.
Gloves: essential in frosty weather.
Small Rucksack: One that is comfortable to wear is essential so that you can use your arms freely. Place valuables in water proof bags inside.
Sunglassses: April- Sept: comfortable sunglasses enhance your pleasure and keep insects out of the eye
Water: even in winter one can loose a litre or more of fluid by perspiration. If you fail to make this up you'll get dehydrated which can lead to headaches and other problems. A hydration bladder is easier to use than bottled water, but higher maintenance.
Food: a packed lunch will be required unless otherwise stated. In addition carry energy bars or similar to counter 'sugar lows'.
Medicines: If you have allergies, are diabetic, or have minor ailments don't forget these!
Food & drink
Please bring a packed lunch, snacks, plus plenty to drink. We'll be having a late lunch at about 14:00 at Ovington and there's the (totally enchanting) 17th Century Bush Inn nearby for a drink (see the third picture). This hidden gem should be enough to sell the walk on its own!