Salisbury - Cities of Old & New Sarum

Cultural & Heritage
Aug 17
2024

20 people attending

2 places left

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Distance is 10km (6.2 miles), ascent is 78m (254 feet). The route is a long gradual ascent apart from the steep climb up the ramparts of Old Sarum. These are chalk and may be slippy in wet weather.

Join us on this linear walk from Salisbury city centre to Old Sarum, tracing the development of the area from mighty Iron Age hill fort to medieval cathedral city through to its recent miiitary history as early RAF airfield and now home of the Boscombe Down Aviation Collection. The itinerary will allow time for those who are interested to go around BDAC (standard cost £11.50), but not to visit Salisbury Cathedral or the central motte at Old Sarum.

The sights

Salisbury: The city of New Sarum (to use its former name) was established around 1220 at the confluence of the rivers Avon & Nadder in south Wiltshire as the settlement of Old Sarum to the north was abandoned. With a population of over 40,000, it is the largest town in the county after Swindon, and is the seat of a cathedral and county court.

Salisbury Cathedral: The present building was constructed to replace the abandoned cathedral at Old Sarum, and was largely completed in just 38 years between 1220 and 1258 - a remarkably short period by medieval standards. The spire was added by 1330 and is now the tallest church spire in England at 404 feet/123 m. The cathedral holds one of 4 surviving original copies of Magna Carta, and what is claimed to be the world's oldest working mechanical clock, dating from 1386.

Cathedral Close: Surrounding the cathedral, the close is the largest in Britain, containing many historic buildings. Described by Pevsner as 'the most beautiful of England's closes', its most famous resident was former Prime Minister Sir Edward Heath, who lived at Arundells.

The Parliament Stone: Despite its abandonment in the 13th century, Old Sarum continued to return two MPs to the House of Commons, and thus became one of the most notorious of the 'rotten boroughs' that existed prior to the Reform Act of 1832. This monument on the Portway leading up to the old fort marks the spot where the 7 electors of Old Sarum gathered to elect their two MPs.

Old Sarum: Situated 2 miles/3km north of the present city centre, Old Sarum was established in 400 BC as an Iron Age hillfort, and was successively a Roman town, a Saxon fort and a Norman motte and bailey castle. Around the castle, a royal palace, cathedral and small  town were built after 1092. The exposed position of the settlement, the limited water supply, and disputes between the church and civil authorities, led to Old Sarum being gradually abandoned in the early 13th century, with stone from the site being used to construct New Sarum down in the Avon valley. Today all that is left are the remains of the Norman castle in the care of English Heritage, and outside it the foundations of the demolished cathedral.

The Mudge Mapping Monument: Standing beside the busy A345, this rather non-descript stone was erected in 1967 to commemorate the start point of the first definitive mapping of Great Britain in 1794 by Captain Mudge of the Royal Artillery.

Old Sarum Airfield: The site for the present airfield was requisitioned by the War Office in 1917 for the Royal Flying Corps for flying & fighter training and was transferred to the new Royal Air Force in April 1918. It ceased to be an RAF station in 1971, but remains active for civilian operations.

Boscombe Down Aviation Collection: This museum of flying is one of Wiltshire's top tourist attractions! Housed in two 1917 hangars at Old Sarum Airfield, it includes a large number of aircraft cockpits and some complete aircraft, along with a wealth of other exhibits and displays. The BDAC offers a hands-on experience, with visitors encouraged to explore and in some cases sit in the aircraft. See the website.

The route (please click on the link in red to see it)

From the railway station, we will walk south through the Queen Elizabeth Gardens and along the Town Path to Harnham, passing the water meadows from where Constable painted the cathedral. After a short walk through Harnham, we recross the River Avon via Old Harnham Bridge to enter the Cathedral Close at the Harnham Gate and walk past the cathedral and the fine houses surrounding it. Leaving the Close, we pass along the High Street to reach the Avon path, which we follow north out the city, past the Five Rivers Leisure Centre to the village of Stratford-sub-Castle. Here we join the ancient Portway, taking us to the track leading up the steep ramparts of Old Sarum Hill Fort. We enter the outer enclosure of Old Sarum by the foundations of the now-demolished cathedral, and walk round to the entrance to the central motte, where there are fine views of the city, and some trees to sit under to have our lunch.

After the break, we will exit Old Sarum enclosure to the east, and embark on the relatively unattractive final section beside the busy A345 and Portway to get to Old Sarum airfield and the BDAC. Unfortunately this is the only pedestrian route available.

I expect to be at BDAC around 14:00 - 14:15, allowing plenty of time for those interested to go around the superb collection of aircraft & exhibits. Standard admission is £11.50 or £12.70 with Gift Aid (concessions available).

After the BDAC visit, we will return to Salisbury by the PR11 bus, which leaves Portway at roughly half-hourly intervals on Saturday afternoons and arrives at Blue Boar Row in the city centre 20 - 25 minutes later. From there, it is a 10 - 15 minute walk back to the railway station.

Dogs

Dogs are welcome on this walk, and this is suitable for them, with few obstacles to negotiate. If we meet grazing livestock or have to cross busy roads, dogs must be on a lead. At other times, a dog off the lead must be obedient. 

Well-behaved dogs are allowed into the Boscombe Down Aviation Collection provided they are on a lead.

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(Photos: Tornado GR1 at BDAC / Salisbury Railway Station / Salisbury Station Parking / Cathedral from water meadows / Harnham Old Mill / Entrance to Cathedral Close / Salisbury Cathedral / The Close / Avon Path / Parliament Stone / Old Sarum hillfort / Ramparts at Old Sarum / Old Sarum Cathedral foundations / Old Sarum motte / Salisbury from Old Sarum / Mudge monument / BDAC at Old Sarum airfield / BDAC Hangar 1 / Jaguar GR1 at BDAC / BDAC North Hangar. All images taken by the leader 12th June & 17th July 2024 and use granted to ODL).