Isle of Wight Double, Day 1: Niton to Brighstone

Introduction:

Last year it was a Dorset Double. This year it's an all-new Isle of Wight Double, taking place on the Saturday and Sunday of the late-May Bank Holiday weekend. Campsites and B&Bs seem to be in rather short supply (and expensive as the late May Bank Holiday weekend is at the start of the half-term holiday) so you are advised to book right now. I'll lead one walk, assisted by lovely local lad Lee Pringle, and he will lead the other, assisted by me. Demand may be reduced as Big Spring Camp will be running at the same time, but even so, I hope you can come and experience an 'overseas' trip to the Isle of Wight and its Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, where the superb coastal scenery is matched by the downland scenery, and dense forests meet quaint villages.

Schedule:

• Day 1 (Saturday 25 May): Niton to St Catherine's Down and Point, Blackgang, Chale, Shorwell and Brighstone - linear walk with bus from Brighstone to the starting point at Niton.
• Day 2 (Sunday 26 May): Brighstone to Mottistone, Freshwater, The Needles and Alum Bay - linear walk with bus from Alum Bay back to the starting point at Brighstone.

Day 1: Niton to St Catherine's Down and Point, Blackgang, Chale, Shorwell and Brighstone

The first of our daywalks is linear and comprises what is, we hope, a winning blend of downland and coastal scenery, cosy cottages and rugged rocks. The villages (and their hostelries) will be more numerous on this walk, with not just Brighstone, but Shorwell, Chale and Niton providing a ceaseless supply of sandstone homes with thatched roofs. Indeed, Shorwell, was one of Queen Victoria's favourite places on the island. You might agree. These idyllic little places are tucked into the folds of some stunning scenery which culminates at St Catherine's Down and Gore Cliff. The rocks here might be tough, but elsewhere they aren't and coastal erosion keeps the coastline dynamic and dramatic.

The sights:

Niton: The most southerly parish on the island and tucked into folds in the splendid scenery. Niton Undercliff has scattered C19 villas (some of which are turreted baronial-style halls), while Niton proper has many thatched, stone-built cottages. We could have a drink in the White Lion pub there while waiting for the bus back. 

St Catherine's Down and Point: The former is a chalk down, rising to 240 metres at its highest point, between the towns of Niton and Chale. Nicknamed 'The Pepperpot', St. Catherine's Oratory is a medieval lighthouse and the second oldest in the country after Roman Dover Lighthouse. It is a slender octagonal tower built by the Lord of Chale, Walter de Godeton, as an act of penance for plundering wine from the wreck of a ship in Chale Bay on 20 April 1313. St Catherine's Point is the southernmost tip of the island (and southeast England). The lighthouse was built in 1830, replacing one that was never finished in 1785. The location is often foggy and so not ideal for a lighthouse, but it is for a weather station. It forms one of the 22 locations whose reports are included in the BBC Shipping Forecast.

Blackgang: Blackgang Chine is a famous chasm that has attracted sightseers since the early C19 and saw Britain's first amusement park established in 1843. The Chine has partly disappeared due to erosion and landslipping, and the park has been rebuilt. Gore Cliff looms over the site, and the coastline sweeps away magnificently to Tennyson Down 16 km to the west. We could avail ourselves of the isolated nudist beach at Rocken Beach near Blackgang.

Chale: A village surrounded by splendid scenery, St Andrew's Church was founded in 1114 and is now mostly C12 and C13. We could have a post-lunch pint at The White Mouse Inn.

Shorwell: One of Queen Victoria's favourite places on the island, and one of its most picturesque. It is sited in rolling hills of greensand south of the chalk downs. The parish of Shorwell contains three manors from the C16 and C17 and we'll see the most impressive, Wolverton. St Peter's Church dates back to C12, and is C13, but was extended in the C17 and C18. The tower with its short, sturdy spire, is pleasing. We could have a mid-morning break at The Crown Inn.

Limerston Down: A chalk down rising to 199m, which will provide a fantastic vantage point over the island.

Brighstone: Despite C20 development, still picturesque with cottages and villas built in a variety of local building stone which includes sandstone and chalk, and many with thatched roofs. St Mary's Church was heavily restored in 1852 but is from the C13. The battlemented tower is C14 and C15. The Old Rectory is Georgian. Bishop Samuel Wilberforce (nicknamed 'Soapy Sam' and notorious for his opposition to Darwin's On the Origin of Species in a debate in 1860) became rector in 1830, and would entertain his father, anti-slavery campaigner William Wilberforce, at the Rectory. 

The route (click the link in red to see it): 

Alighting from the bus at Niton, we'll descend Undercliff Drive and Castlehaven Lane and we'll then take the coastal path along Gore Cliff to St Catherine's Point where we'll turn south. From there we'll ascend St Catherine's Hill and Niton Down, then follow a footpath north to Blackgang Chine and The Five Rocks. The northwest-bound coastal path will take us to Chale, then Walpen Chine and Whale Chine. Heading north out of Shorwell, we'll follow Doctor's Lane and Samber Hill before connecting with the Shepherd's Trail, which will take us to the coastal path at Shepherd's Chine. We'll then walk west along the crest of the hill and ascend Fore Down to Shorwell. We'll head southwest out of the village and ascend Limerstone Down, then descend to go back to Brighstone.

Transport there:

We will catch the No. 12 bus from Brighstone to Newport at 09.59, then wait for 30 minutes for the connection at Newport where you can explore or have a drink. We'll then take the No. 6 bus to Brighstone, arriving at Niton at around 11.40.

Accommodation:

Book for at least Friday 24 May to Sunday 26 May (3 nights). The following day is Bank Holiday Monday. You are advised to book now. 

• Campsites: Choose one near Brighstone. The best option is Grange Farm, followed by Brighstone Holiday Centre. Other campsites for members of the Camping and Caravanning Club (further away) are: Thorncross Farm, Meadow Lakes and Chine Farm.
• Bed and Breakfasts: Choose one in or within a couple of miles of Brighstone. Search Booking.com here. YHA Brighstone has closed.

Dogs:

I love having dogs on my walks and this one may be suitable for dogs with lots of stamina. It is long, has some fields with livestock and will partly be along lanes. Much of the route is exposed to the sun so a dog may overheat, although they will be able to go in the sea at Atherstone Point. Your dog must be responsive if it is off the lead. 

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(Photo credits: Coastal erosion near Whale Chine, Isle of Wight: Photo © Paul Coueslant (cc-by-sa/2.0); Photo © Paul Coueslant (cc-by-sa/2.0); Gore Cliff and view to Tennyson Down: Photo © Paul Coueslant (cc-by-sa/2.0); Cliff and Undercliff: Photo © Des Blenkinsopp (cc-by-sa/2.0); Limerstone Down looking south: Photo © Graham Horn (cc-by-sa/2.0); Sheep on Fore Down: Photo © Chris Gunns (cc-by-sa/2.0); Shorwell: Photo © Philip Halling (cc-by-sa/2.0); Shorwell Church: Photo © Andy Stephenson (cc-by-sa/2.0); Wolverton Manor: Photo © David Squire (cc-by-sa/2.0); Shepherd's Chine: Photo © David Smith (cc-by-sa/2.0); Walpen Chine: Photo © Robin Webster (cc-by-sa/2.0); Chale Church: Photo © Philip Halling (cc-by-sa/2.0); St Catherine's Oratory: Photo © Rude Health (cc-by-sa/2.0); Cliff and Undercliff: Photo © Des Blenkinsopp (cc-by-sa/2.0); St. Catherine's Point lighthouse: Photo © Steve Fareham (cc-by-sa/2.0). All pictures are copyrighted but are licensed for reuse under Creative Commons CC-BY-SA 2.0 and are here attributed to their copyright holders.)